1. Choose the right size fish tank

When choosing a fish tank size, there are two main factors to keep in mind.

1. Your available space. Measure the space you have for a fish tank – you don’t want to buy an aquarium that’s too big. But don’t be fooled into thinking that smaller is easier. Smaller fish tanks actually require more maintenance than large fish tanks. So, if you have room for something a little bigger than you originally imagined, fill that space.

2. How many fish you want to keep / how large you’d like these fish to be. Overcrowding can lead to aggression, stress, and disease in fish, so you’ll need a tank large enough for the number of fish you’d like to keep / the species you’d like to keep.

Our blog post What size fish tank do you need? explains how to work out how much space you need for a fish tank and which fish can live in which size tank.

2. Choose fish who will be happy living together

When deciding which fish to buy, research which species are compatible. Some fish can be territorial or aggressive, so check which fish can live peacefully together before buying.

3. Cycle and condition your aquarium water

Your fish tank water needs the right properties to keep fish healthy. You need to add microorganisms to your aquarium that will break down waste and keep the water safe for fish.

Lots of fish tank kits come with the conditioning solutions you need to prepare your fish tank, but you can also buy these solutions separately.

Make sure you have: 

• A bacteria filter starter
• A water conditioner
• A dechlorinator

Cycling fish tank water can take some time, so let your fish tank run for at least seven days with all the necessary solutions before adding fish. 

4. Test your water quality

Test your water quality to make sure the pH balance and chemical levels are right before introducing fish.

A water testing kit will help you check your fish tank for pH and the right levels of nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia.

5. Check the temperature of your fish tank

Your fish tank water needs to be the right temperature for your fish. Major changes to the water temperature can be fatal to fish, so it’s important to get this right.

While coldwater fish don’t need a heater and can live in water of around 18℃, tropical and marine fish typically need water of around 27℃. You will need a fish tank heater to sustain this temperature. 

Our blog post on how to set up a fish tank for tropical fish can help you get this right.

6. Introduce fish to the tank gradually

Introducing fish straight into a new tank can distress them. Instead, float your fish in your tank in the bag(s) of water that you brought them home in. 

Leave the bag(s) to float for around 20 minutes. Every five minutes, add around a quarter of a cup of your aquarium water into the sealed bag. Then, open the bag(s) and let your new fish swim out in their own time.

This process combines the chemistry and temperature of your fish tank with the chemistry and temperature of the fishes’ original tank, reducing the risk of your fish feeling agitated.

7. Complete regular water changes

Regularly changing 25 to 50% of your fish tank will keep the aquarium clean for your fish and get rid of debris and waste, which can distress fish and lead to illness.

The smaller your fish tank, the more regularly you’ll need to complete a water change. This is because it’s harder to maintain the right pH and chemical levels in a small tank. 

While a small fish tank will likely need a water change every one to three weeks, you can probably leave a larger tank for four to five weeks between water changes. 

Keep an eye on how quickly your tank accumulates dirt and adjust your water change schedule accordingly.

Bonus Tip

You can use a siphon to make removing water from your fish tank easier and quicker.

8. Clean out algae

Algae may build up on the inside of your fish tank (and on items inside the fish tank). Algae creates a swampy, murky look and reduces the amount of oxygen in the water, which can be damaging for fish and plants.

Use cleaning tools like an algae scraper, algae pad, or algae magnet to clean algae off your tank, ornaments, rocks, and plants.

You can also buy an algae treatment to get rid of excessive algae.

You can reduce algae growth in your fish tank by ensuring the aquarium is out of direct sunlight. While it’s important for your fish to get some natural light, too much sunlight can lead to excessive algae growth. 

In fact, fish should only get up to 12 hours of light a day – after all, their natural habitat is pretty dark.

Our blog post Where’s the best place to put a fish tank? should help you find an ideal spot, out of direct sunlight.

9. Don’t overfeed your fish

Overfeeding your fish can lead to an excess of waste and debris in the tank, not to mention algae growth, all of which can cause water quality problems and a lack of oxygen.

Most fish don’t need a lot of food to live healthily. One or two feeds a day should be fine, although this depends on your species and how many fish are in your tank. Either way, don’t feed your fish more than they can eat in a few minutes.

As long as your fish don’t show any of the following symptoms, you’re feeding them enough:

• Digging around in the substrate for food.
• Waiting and the top of the aquarium for feeding time.
• Acting aggressively towards other fish.
• Acting slow or sluggish.
• Losing weight.

10. Look out for signs of fish illness

If your fish fall ill, you’ll have better chances of curing the illness the earlier you catch the disease. 

Look out for:

• Changes in your fishes’ eating patterns.
• Slow or sluggish behaviour.
• Flakes or bulges on the skin.
• Abnormal inflammation.

If you notice these signs of illness, we have an array of fish treatments to help cure your fish.

About Warehouse Aquatics

The Warehouse Aquatics mission is to offer the most choice at the best prices when it comes to your fishes’ wellbeing. We use the products on our website ourselves and are well-versed in all things fish, so we can give you all the advice you need. We’re not just here to sell aquatic supplies. We’re also here to guide you through your journey as a fish owner and enthusiast.

As a small team, we love to hear from our customers, so please do join the Warehouse Aquatics social media community. We’re always up for a chat, and we’d love to share your aquarium photos with our followers.

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The post 10 fish tank maintenance tips appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

What is the nitrogen cycle?

Outside of fish tanks, the nitrogen cycle is the process of nitrogen moving from the air to plants, then animals, then bacteria, and then back to air. Although this system doesn’t need human intervention in the outside world, the cycle works differently in the confines of a fish tank. This is because nitrates convert into harmless nitrogen gas in open spaces. But this doesn’t happen in fish tanks, so partial water changes are essential.

The three stages of the nitrogen cycle

In a fish tank, the nitrogen cycle is a biochemical mechanism that causes the ongoing degradation of nitrogenous compounds like ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Put simply, there are three stages in this cycle.

Ammonia

Bacteria in your fish tank break down waste products like uneaten food, dead organisms, dead plant leaves, and fish waste. As the bacteria break this matter down, the metabolism of protein produces ammonia, a colourless gas that is harmful to fish. Even low levels of ammonia in your fish tank can cause oxygen deprivation and possibly burn your fishes’ gills.

Nitrite

Nitrogen-fixing bacteria called Nitrosomonas then consume the ammonia in your tank, producing nitrite, which is also harmful to fish. Nitrite disrupts your fishes’ oxygen-carrying capabilities. However, most fish can cope with double the quantity of nitrite in the water than they can ammonia.

Nitrate

During the third stage of the nitrogen cycle, bacteria called Nitrobacter process the nitrite and release nitrate, which is less harmful. Although nitrate isn’t harmful at a low level, a higher level can pose danger to your fish.

Removing nitrates from your fish tank

You can manage the nitrogen cycle in your fish tank by:

• Using a biological filtration system. Your fish tank filter will contain sponges that aid the growth of healthy bacteria. These bacteria are essential to the nitrogen cycle because they break down the nitrites and ammonia produced by fish waste, as well as decaying organic matter. This is key to keeping the water safe for your fish. 
• Adding live plants to fight nitrates.
• Removing waste and uneaten food from your fish tank. A gravel cleaner can be helpful here.
• Putting less fish food in your tank. Only give your fish enough food for them to eat within a couple of minutes.
• Carrying out regular water changes to manage nitrates.

You can also buy test kits to check the pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your fish tank.

About Warehouse Aquatics

The Warehouse Aquatics mission is to offer the most choice at the best prices when it comes to your fishes’ wellbeing. We use the products on our website ourselves and are well-versed in all things fish, so we can give you all the advice you need. We’re not just here to sell aquatic supplies. We’re also here to guide you through your journey as a fish owner and enthusiast.

As a small team, we love to hear from our customers, so please do join the Warehouse Aquatics social media community. We’re always up for a chat, and we’d love to share your aquarium photos with our followers.

Facebook Instagram

The post The nitrogen cycle in your fish tank explained appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

How much does a fish tank cost?

Fish tanks come in all shapes and sizes, so it’s no surprise that price varies hugely. Our lowest-priced tanks are our 17-litre Ciano aquariums, which come in white and black. At just over £40, these fish tanks come with a pre-fitted filter and LED strip light.

At the other end of the scale, we stock a variety of high-end fish tanks that come with cabinets designed explicitly for these aquariums. A couple of examples include our Juwel Vision 450 range of aquariums and cabinets, which starts at £1,453, and our Eheim range of luxury aquariums, which starts at £1,389.

How much do fish tank filters, heaters, and pumps cost?

You can buy different types of fish tank filters, like powered filters, under gravel filters, and sponge filters, depending on your tank. These filters range in price from £7–£38.

Meanwhile, fish tank heaters range in price from £10–£39. But you only need a heater if you’re keeping tropical fish. Coldwater fish don’t need a heater.

You can also buy an air pump for extra aeration and oxygen or to power a funky ornament. You can pick up air pumps for £11–£41.

How much do fish tank decorations and substrates cost?

When you come to decorate your fish tank, we stock loads of substrates, fish tank backgrounds, ornaments, plants, stones, pebbles, rocks, LifeRock, driftwood, shells, corals, leaves, and ceramic nature. This means you can decorate your aquarium on virtually any budget.

• Our fish tank backgrounds cost £1–£60.
• Our substrates, sands, and live sands cost £4–£46.
• Our fish tank ornaments cost £3–£28.
• Our artificial plants cost £2–£5.
• Our stones, pebbles, rocks, and LifeRock cost £5–£203.
• Our fish tank driftwood costs £3–£83.
• Our artificial corals cost £3–£27.
• Our leaves cost £5–£10.
• Our shells cost £4–£7.
• Our ceramic nature costs £5–£13.

How much do fish treatments and test kits cost?

Fishkeepers have to test their aquarium water and treat their fish from time to time. We stock a variety of dechlorinators, bacteria filter starters, water conditioners, water quality test kits, algae treatments, and fish disease treatments to help you with this.

• Our dechlorinators range from £2–£25.
• Our bacteria filter starters range from £2–£46.
• Our water conditioners range from £2–£50.
• Our test kits range from £5–£50.
• Our algae treatments range from £3–£11.
• Our fish disease treatments range from £3–£138.

How much do fish tank lights cost?

Almost all fish tanks come with light tubes, so you don’t need to worry about this added cost. However, we do stock replacement T5, T8, and LED bulbs. These bulbs range in price from £6–£31.

Read about the difference between these bulbs here.

How much does fish food cost?

We stock an array of fish foods for goldfish, tropical fish, marine fish, and shrimp. We also stock holiday feeders for while you’re away. These foods range in price from £1–£4 per tub or sachet.

How much do fish cost?

Much like aquatics equipment, fish can cost virtually anything. That said, you can pick up most starter fish for up to a few pounds each. And the smaller your tank, the fewer fish you can keep. Bigger fish can cost much more and even enter the hundreds.

So, how much does it cost to keep fish?

You can decide how much to invest in keeping fish. While some of our customers are huge fish hobbyists who purchase high-end fish tanks and advanced filtration systems and treatments, other customers prefer a more traditional approach to fishkeeping. 

With our supplies, you can spend well under £100 to set up a fully functioning fish tank. But you might decide to splash out and treat your fish to some luxuries too.

About Warehouse Aquatics

The Warehouse Aquatics mission is to offer the most choice at the best prices when it comes to your fishes’ wellbeing. We use the products on our website ourselves and are well-versed in all things fish, so we can give you all the advice you need. We’re not just here to sell aquatic supplies. We’re also here to guide you through your journey as a fish owner and enthusiast.

As a small team, we love to hear from our customers, so please do join the Warehouse Aquatics social media community. We’re always up for a chat, and we’d love to share your aquarium photos with our followers.

Facebook Instagram

The post How much does it cost to own fish? appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

Fish tank backgrounds

One of the first things to think about when planning to decorate your fish tank is whether you’d like a fish tank background. Some are like giant posters, and others are 3D textured backdrops that you can fit or glue inside your tank. Not only do these backdrops provide a scene that brings your fish tank to life, but they can also hide your filter and heater tubes. Our fish tank backgrounds include scenes of cliff drops, ocean water, and rockeries.

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Fish tank substrates

You also need to decide on a substrate to decorate the bottom of your fish tank. You have a few options here, and your decision should be as much about function as aesthetics. This is because fish tank substrates encourage healthy bacteria colonies that aid filtration. Function aside, our substrates come in a range of textures and colours to suit any aquarium design.

• Sand is one of the most popular substrates for fresh and saltwater tanks. Not only is sand ideal for beneficial bacteria that keep your fish tank water healthy, but it looks natural and beachy, an aesthetic that lots of fishkeepers want. 
• Live sand is a fantastic option for marine fish tanks as it’s full of strains of marine bacteria as well as the usual healthy bacterias. It also shares the beachy look of standard fish tank sand.
• Gravel is another popular choice, ideal for freshwater tanks. It’s durable, only needs occasional rinsing, and comes in an array of bright, tropical colours. 
• Planting substrate is specially formulated for fishkeepers who want to grow aquatic plants. If you’re looking to design a natural, green environment for your fish, this kind of substrate offers the fertilisation and anti-algae benefits that you need.

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Artificial fish tank plants

When you decorate your fish tank, artificial plants allow you to create a natural look without the maintenance that comes with live plants. These plants add pops of colour to any fish tank, and many fishkeepers choose tall, flowering plants to create that tropical under-the-sea look. We sell approximately 200 artificial plants in all shapes and sizes to brighten your aquarium.

Shop artificial fish tank plants

Artificial coral

Artificial corals make perfect additions to fish tanks for those who want a tropical look. They’re easy to clean and come in virtually all colours. Just a few of our artificial corals include red ridge corals, lettuce corals (like this one), coral gardens, sun corals, and trumpet head corals.

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Rocks, stones, pebbles, shells, and leaves

Fishkeepers looking to cultivate a natural look in their fish tanks often gravitate towards our wide selection of rocks, stones, pebbles, shells, and leaves. These natural items come in every shape, size, and colour. It’s important to buy these items from a specialist aquatics shop as items picked up off the beach often aren’t safe for fish.

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Fish tank driftwood

Driftwood and wood roots offer yet more natural-looking decorations when you decorate your fish tank. Driftwood decorations also create great hiding places for your fish. Again, it’s important to buy driftwood and wood roots from an aquatics shop because standard driftwood from a beach can cause gill damage in certain fish.

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Fish tank ornaments

Fish tank ornaments offer one of the easiest ways to personalise and decorate your fish tank. From Bonsai plant ornaments that wrap around your air tube to ancient Greek structures, swim-through tunnels, castles, bridges, space dogs, plane wrecks, and television characters, you’ll find the perfect ornament for your fish tank in our collection of over 100.

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Ceramic nature

Ceramic logs, tubes, and caves offer great hiding places for fish and create a rustic look for any fish tank. You can choose between our turtle cave, half logs, and bamboo tubes.

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You're ready to decorate your fish tank

With the following fish tank decor categories in mind, you’re now ready to explore our decorations range and personalise your fish tank. Whether you opt for whimsical ornaments, tropical plants and corals, or rustic driftwood pieces and shells, we’d love to see your fish tank designs. Send us a photo on Facebook.

About Warehouse Aquatics

The Warehouse Aquatics mission is to offer the most choice at the best prices when it comes to your fishes’ wellbeing. We use the products on our website ourselves and are well-versed in all things fish, so we can give you all the advice you need. We’re not just here to sell aquatic supplies. We’re also here to guide you through your journey as a fish owner and enthusiast.

As a small team, we love to hear from our customers, so please do join the Warehouse Aquatics social media community. We’re always up for a chat, and we’d love to share your aquarium photos with our followers.

Facebook Instagram

The post How to decorate your fish tank appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

…then you too may have been surprised to learn that the art of fish keeping is far more complex and intricate than what meets the eye. There are so many different things to consider when setting up an aquarium. What sort of fish should you keep if any at all? Should you set up a tropical or cold water tank? The possibilities are endless! One of the biggest decisions you’ll make, and probably the most expensive, is deciding which tank to buy in the first place. With such a wide selection of tanks available, each with endless design features, it’s important that you choose the right aquarium. This however, is something much easier said than done. With that in mind, we’ve highlighted our top five aquariums we think are suitable for any beginner embarking upon their very first aquatic journey.

  1) Baby BiOrb 

The first recommendation on our list is the sleek looking Baby BiOrb 15 Litre aquarium. It is a new take on the classic “Goldfish Ball” with some upgraded modern features. Firstly, it is made of acrylic, which is sturdier and more reliable than the traditional glass in aquariums. Designed to be compact, it is perfect for even the smallest of spaces, which also makes it easier to clean and maintain. Everything runs on low voltage making it eco-friendly and above all safe. If you are a complete novice to fish keeping, this starter kit is ideal as it comes with everything you need to get you started. Complete with an air pump, filter media and water conditioners, along with other added necessities, all you really need to do is decide how to decorate your new tank. Simple.

2) Newa – More

Next, we have the Newa More 18 litre corner aquarium. This tank comes highly recommended for its sturdy manufacturing and nifty corner design that makes it compact and slick, allowing you to conceal any unsightly cables. It has inbuilt compartments for heating and lighting giving you the option of turning your tank into a tropical environment. Perhaps the most appealing part of the design is the filtering system. Not only does it have an overflow safety feature, but it sits to the rear of the tank, making maintenance and cleaning stress free. The starter pack comes with all the basics needed to get you started, including filter media and lights and detailed instructions on how to get the most out of your tank; it really could be as simple as adding water and fish!

3) BiOrb Life

For those ready to step up to the challenge of tropical fish keeping, the BiOrb Life 30 litre is an excellent choice for a first tank. This is mainly down to the very cleverly designed intelligent light unit that has day light and moon light capabilities. It can be used for 24 hours a day and can be set on a timer cycle to create a natural light environment for your fish. It has a beautiful rounded compact design, which is available in black or white, making it very pleasing to the eye. Rather than the use of traditional glass, BiOrb use acrylic on their tanks making them sturdy and more resistant to cracks. This is especially useful for moving your tank about. The starter kit also comes complete with an air pump, water conditioner, and various other additions needed to get your tropical tank up and running.

4) Juwel Rekord 800

Another one for those that want to try their hand at tropical fish keeping; the Juwel Rekord (110 Litre) is an ideal choice for a first tank. The rectangular design gives it a traditional “old school” aquarium feel. The appearance, however, can be deceiving; everything about the modest looking tank is expertly crafted with high quality materials. It has an integrated Bio-filter and lighting system which are easily accessible for maintenance and cleaning. The filter system in particular is designed to allow the use of filter media with a large surface area, which is essential in growing beneficial bacteria. The larger volume of water gives way for a more stable environment for fish and plants. Adding a heater is simple too, so upgrading to a tropical tank isn’t difficult. The starter pack again comes with all the necessities needed to get you started.

5) Juwel Rio 125

The ultimate starter aquarium has to be the Juwel Rio 125 Litres. Like the Rekord 800, it displays the same traditional design features as most Juwel-produced Aquariums. It is available in four different colours, and they have also manufactured a customized cabinet to house the aquarium. The mid-range tank is fully kitted out with lots of modern fixtures and fittings which are all designed around safety and efficiency. The lighting system uses T5 bulbs to help promote plant growth and development, giving you the option of growing aquatic plants should you wish in the future. The tank has so many features it is apparent that this is manufactured and built to last as well as make your hobby as stress free as possible. This is a relatively large starter tank, which is useful for creating a stable environment for any plants or fish and housing a greater variety of them. The question is Cold-water or Tropical?

Of course, choosing a tank is the very first part of the journey. The road of discovery in the world of fish keeping is still ahead. We would like to know if you are interested in fish keeping or indeed if you are already an aquatics enthusiast, do you have any advice on tanks for beginners?

The post Top 5 Freshwater Aquariums for beginners appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

Pond algae come in many different shapes and sizes. It can range from tiny suspended particles which cause a ‘pea soup’ look to long stringy varieties. If left to get out of hand this can have an extremely negative effect on the pond and any inhabitants.

Why have I got algae in my pond?

The factors which cause algae are wide ranging and more often that not it is more than one of these factors causing the problem. The main factors which can promote the growth of excessive algae are:

• The pond gets too much sunlight during the day.
• Excessive nutrient levels in the water caused by a build up of organic matter (fallen leaves, dying aquatic plants etc)
• Fertilisers being inadvertently added to the pond (overspray when gardening, rain run off)
• A build up of organic waste such as fish waste.
• Insufficient pond depth. This allows the water to heat up quickly in summertime which can increase the growth rate of algae.
• Poor flow to filtration system.

How can I prevent algae?

Algae is normally be prevented by ensuring that the factors above are not applicable to your pond. If you are yet to build your pond, we would advise that at least part of it receives some shade during the day. Planting surface covering plants such as lilies will help also.

It is also a good idea to remove fallen leaves regularly to avoid a build up of rotting organics in the pond which will feed the algae. This can be done either with a skimmer net or with a purpose designed pond skimmer. A pond  cover net will stop the leaves falling into the pond in the first place.

When planning your pond always aim for a depth of at least 2 feet, ideally at least 3 feet to avoid rapid fluctuations in temperature. If keeping Koi the depth should be at least 4 feet.

Always keep your fish stocking levels sensible. Overstocked ponds will rapidly build up high levels of organic waste and algae will then thrive.

Filtration is key to keeping nutrient levels low in ponds. Insufficient filtration will allow the organic waste to build up and provide fuel for algae to grow. Always be sure to maintain your filtration system regularly.

UV clarifiers are excellent at preventing suspended algae from taking hold. As the algae passes the UV lamp it is killed ready to be removed by your mechanical filtration.

Remember, it is a lot easier (and better) to prevent the algae from appearing in the first place. We would advise monitoring nitrate and phosphate levels regularly using a good quality test kit so that action can be taken before major issues occur.

Rubbish, I didn’t read this amazing guide in time and now I have algae – how can I remedy it?

Long, string like varieties of algae are easily removed with an Algae Removal Utility Shaft, or, as it is more commonly known, a stick!!! Simply twirl the algae around the stick (a garden cane works well) and remove from the pond. If you have a compost bin, this is perfect! Once the bulk of the algae has been removed an algae treatment should be used to combat the remaining algae to prevent it growing back.

There are various algaecides available such as Extract of Barley Straw and Cloverleaf Blanket Answer which are very effective against pond algae.

Once you have removed/treated the algae you should ensure that you follow the advice in the section above to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. As we say, prevention is better than cure.

The post Coping with pond algae, a guide appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

1. Choosing a site

Choosing where in your garden to locate your pond is not as simple as thinking “There’s a gap there, that’ll do”. If you choose the wrong site you may end up with headaches further down the line. Follow our simple guidelines below for a successful start to your new pond:

• Don’t put the pond too close to deciduous trees or shrubs as they will shower the pond with leaves every autumn which will rot and pollute the pond.
• A site with partial sun is excellent as it allows plants to thrive. Stay clear of a site which receives sunlight all day though as algae may become a nuisance.
• Steer clear of areas near large trees as roots can rupture liners over time.
• Allow access all the way around the pond to make maintenance easier in the future.
• Formal or patio ponds are generally located nearer to the house so that you can enjoy them from indoors whereas a wildlife pond would be much better in an area further from the house to encourage wildlife.
• Consider how you will get power to the pumps etc. Pond equipment generally comes supplied with 10m of cable (5m for some filters).

Careful planning is essential to the success of a pond so do allow time for this.

2. How big should it be?

This is largely dependent on the space available in your garden. As a general rule you should not have a pond (with fish in) that is shallower than 2 feet. If you intend to keep Koi the minimum depth for your pond is 4 feet. Koi are fast growing fish that produce a lot of waste so a large pond is therefore required.

3. Digging the pond

Before you start to dig the pond you will need to think about what method you will use to construct the pond. We will outline the procedure for fitting a flexible liner here. If you wish to use a different method we would advise visiting our book section for further advice. If using a flexible liner you will need to determine how much is required, use the following calculation for this:

• Width = pond width at widest point + (depth x 2) + (edge overlap x 2)
• Length = pond length at longest point + (depth x 2) + (edge overlap x 2)

If using a flexible liner it is advisable (although not essential) to first of all dig a small trench around the perimeter of your planned pond. This trench  should be approximately 6 inches deep by 10-12 inches across. Once dug this trench can be filled with concrete to form a level, sturdy base for the capping stones you will use once the liner is in place. A level water line is also much more pleasing to the eye.

Once the concrete is completely dry you can excavate the pond itself. Be very careful when digging near to the concrete collar as it can be easily damaged by a stray spade!! Allow a gentle slope on the sides of approximately 3-4 inches per foot of depth.

Shelves can be formed around the edges of the pond for planting. These should be around 10-12 inches from the water surface.

4. Lining the pond

Once the pond is dug out ensure that there are no stones, roots or similar items that could pierce your shiny new liner. Once all of these items have been removed lay an underlay to protect the liner itself. A good quality underlay will protect the liner better than things such as sand or old duvets and is a worthwhile investment.

Now that the pond is excavated and lined with underlay it is time to fit the liner itself. Unroll the liner next to the pond ensuring it is the right way round. Lay the liner over the hole and allow it to sink in as far as it can. Now you can get your shoes off and get into the hole to gently push the liner to the edges and around shelves etc. Try to remove as many creases as you can at this point.

Once the liner is roughly in place and the creases are flattened out as best you can its time to turn on the tap! Fill the tank with a hose pipe and allow the weight of the water to slowly drag the liner into place.

Once the water is approximately 6 inches from the intended level turn off the water and remove the hose. Now that the liner is in place you can trim the excess. Don’t forget to allow for some overlap to go underneath your edging stones/slabs!!

5. Finishing the pond

Lay your slabs/stones around the pond without mortaring them down to ensure a good fit. Once you are happy with the layout you can start to mortar them down on top of the liner on top of the concrete collar (told you it would be useful). Take care not to drop any mortar into your pond. The slabs should slope

Once the edging is in place you just need to trim off any liner which is poking out of the outer edge and then stand back to admire your new pond!!

The post Construct a pond in five simple steps appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

The type of light required for a coldwater aquarium is normally down to the tastes of the owner more than the requirements of the fish. The best lighting for a coldwater aquarium will show off the colouring of the inhabitants to make them look their best. Although the lighting itself is not hugely important, it should still fall within the correct area of the light spectrum, especially if there are plants within the aquarium. If there are plants present the lamps should be within 5500-6500 Kelvin and reasonably high output, such as T5’s.

T8 lighting is sufficient for most coldwater aqauriums. This means that many ‘Complete’ aquariums on the market today are suitable for keeping coldwater fish without any lighting modifications.

As with coldwater aquariums, the lighting required for a tropical aquarium should show off the colours of your fish. There are several different types of light tube which can be used, all output a slightly different area of the light spectrum. ‘Daylight’ lamps use more of the blue end of the spectrum to recreate, not surprisingly, daylight! Whereas ‘warm’ light tubes utilise the red end of the spectrum to show off the colours on your fish.

If possible, using a combination of these lights gives a good coverage and a pleasing look for your aquarium.

If you wish to set up a planted aquarium, more care will need to be taken when selecting lights in order to ensure that your plants flourish. There are several T5 bulbs on the market designed specifically for planted aquariums such as Arcadia’s Plant Pro range.

In a planted aquarium you should aim for 1 watt of light for every 2 litres of water as a minimum. Obviously there are plants available which will be ok under less intense lighting but 1 watt per 2 litres is a good ratio to aim for when starting out. It is also a good idea to install reflectors on your light tubes to maximise the amount of light reaching the aquarium.

LED lighting is now available aimed specifically at the planted aquarium hobbyist from companies such as TMC who offer the Grobeam range. These offer a full spectrum light output of 6500K and, as it is a point light source they create a natural shimmer effect.

Light tubes should be changed every 8-12 months as the light output diminishes and the spectrum of the light can shift slightly leading to algae issues. This does not apply to LED lighting as bulbs never need to be changed.

A light timer is an essential piece of equipment for any aquarium and allows for consistency in the day to day cycle of light within the aquarium. Aim for 8-10 hours of ‘daylight’ per day. If the tank receives a large amount of direct natural light (something you should aim to avoid when positioning your aquarium) then consider reducing this lighting period, especially if algae problems occur.

The post A guide to freshwater lighting appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

Nano aquariums are classed as small tanks usually no more than 35 litres that contain a miniature environment for marine and tropical species. In this example we have set up a small Dennerle 20 litre aquarium suitable for freshwater fish species and a couple of small and well suited fish.

The nano aquarium can in fact be a little more difficult than its larger brother due to the less stable conditions provided by the relatively small volume of water. Nano aquarists pride themselves on keeping their water quality pristine as any deterioation can have a huge impact on the well being of the inhabitants.

There are many products now developed especially for the nano aquarist designed to make the hobby easier

Freshwater:

Nano complete aquariums

Nano heaters

Nano lighting

Nano CO2 sets

Nano gravels and decor

Nano plants

Nano planting equipment

Marine:

Nano skimmers

Nano lighting

Nano Led’s

Nano salt sachets

How to set up a planted nano aquarium

Stage one:

Open up your kit, inspect all equipment, ensure the lights work and check for any damage or missing pieces. There’s nothing worse than getting half way through a tank setup to find out the light unit doesnt switch on or you are missing something important.

Next stage is to inspect the aquarium, check for any cracks and fill the tank with tap water to test for any leaks. We recommend you test on the kitchen sink as long as the surface is flat and smooth with nothing that could scratch or damage the aquarium.

Leave the aquarium filled over night and check for any leaks or seepage.

Now its time to start!

Planted tanks benefit well from having a nutrient rich substrate under the gravel for feeding the plants and promoting good root growth. In the Dennerle range the complete aquariums come with all equipment used in this example.

Deponit mix is poured into the tank and spread out evenly:

Stage two:

Spread the gravel evenly and carefully over the base layer

Stage 3:

Add the heater and filter before introducing any rocks or wood to ensure everything fits well

Its always best to attempt to arrange your decor outside of the tank to see what works. This way you limit the amount of time spent moving heavy pieces around and you reduce the risk of scratching or scuffing the aquarium glass.

Once you are happy with your arrangement carefully place it in the tank. Be sure to have pre soaked any wood as otherwise it will float as soon as you fill your tank and could posisbly ruin the display.

Stage 4:

Now is the time to plant your aquarium.

The tools for this are:

– A sharp pair of aquatic scissors

– Long planting tweezers.

For our display we used the Tropica Live Plants, we think they are the bee’s knee’s for these simple reasons:

– Grown in sterile conditions so NO diseases and NO pests!

– Grown in a super food filled jelly which gives them the best start when put into your aquarium

– Great quality plants that grow super fast as soon as they are placed in water

Break up the Tropica plants into several small pieces by using sharp scissors, wash off the jelly to remove excess nutrients.

Carefully place the plant pieces into the aquarium, if planting is taking a while you could spray them with water to prevent them drying out. You can use fine twine to hold the plants into place if needed, after the plants have rooted this can be cut away.

Plants used in our display where:

Tropica 1-2 Grow Eleocharis parvula Live Plants

Tropica 1-2 Grow Ludwigia repens ‘Rubin’ Live Plants

Tropica 1-2 Grow Limnophila sessiliflora Live Plants

Tropica 1-2 Grow Glossostigma elatinoides Live Plants

Tropica 1-2 Grow Lilaeopsis brasiliensis Live Plants

Tropica 1-2 Grow Marsilea hirsuta Live Plants

Step 5:

Once you have completed your display you can slowly fill your aquarium with pre-heated and de-chlorinated water, this ensures you don’t shock the plants. Use a plate to pour the water onto or pour the water in cup by cup until the aquarium is filled carefully without disturbing your display.

Step 6:

Once the tank is filled power up your filter and heater and ensure everything is running correctly.

After a few hours any cloudiness in the tank should clear

After one week:

After three weeks:

We have added a few cherry shrimps and the tank is developing nicely

Cherry Shrimps are great inhabitants for the freshwater nano aquarium:

After four Weeks:

This is what happens if you forget to prune your Tropica plants over Xmas- they grow so fast!

The post How to set up a Nano aquarium appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.

All BiOrb aquariums from Warehouse Aquatics come with the following things to get you started:

– Setup guide

– Food sachet

– Water treatment sachet

– Filtration system which includes a bubble tube, air pump and air stone

– A lid or light depending on which BiOrb you choose

Lighting Available

– None just a Perspex lid

– Halogen lighting which is a plain bulb controlled by an on/off switch

– LED Intelligent lighting which can create sunset/sunrise and moonlight in your aquarium

– Moonlight which has a daylight bulb during the day but switches to a moonlight when it gets dark

BiOrbs are suitable for the following types of fish:

– Small goldfish or Coldwater fish

White Cloud Mountain Minnows

Comet Goldfish

– Small tropical fish

Tetras

Danios

Platies

Guppies

– Small Marine Fish

Clownfish

Blennies

Shrimp

Snails

So I’d like a BiOrb Aquarium but what else might I need?

As well as the fantastic equipment supplied with every BiOrb aquarium you may like to add some decor or accessories to help make fish keeping easier:

– BiOrb Aquarium Gravel Cleaner – To syphon out water during regular water changes as well as any detritus

– A BiOrb Timer to help remind you when maintenance tasks are due

– Some additional water treatment – your sachet will run out sooner or later!

– BiOrb Pebble Pack to provide a coloured base

15L Aquarium – 1 Pebble Pack

30L Aquarium – 2 Pebble Packs

60L Aquarium – 2 Pebble Packs

105L Aquarium – 3 Pebble Packs

– Plant Packs

Several Plant packs in an aquarium provide your fish some shelter to help them feel comfortable, the size and number of plants you want to add is entirely upto personal taste

Biorb Bubble Tube disguisers

Bubble tubes ornaments or rings are designed to go around the bubble tubes to hide them and also provide some decoration to your aquarium

The post A beginner’s guide to BiOrbs appeared first on Warehouse Aquatics.